Heeling
without leash is one of the basic skills of obedience and one of key exercises
in dog’s ringsport.The most difficult
element in developing of this skill is to teach the dog to focus the attention
on the handler without diverting it to any sounds, noise, movements or objects.
A training with a ball can be rather effective. At the beginning the dog
constantly sees the ball in handler’s hand. The ball is a desirable toy for the
dog, it attracts the dog’s attention and helps to fix it on handlers’ hands.The second stage of the exercise: to teach
the dog to continue walking with the handler without seeing the ball. And the
third stage: when the ball is suddenly thrown aside - the dog is taught to
continue heeling in spite of a strong
desire to rush after the toy. As all exercises it’s better to finish it by
playing with the dog.
This kind of
training is of great practical importance, particularly for dogs in cities.
About 800 till 100 before Christ, in Fore-Asia,
the first written proofs of dogs used for war, where found. They where very big
fighting-dogs who where very important for the army's in that time. Kyros, King of Perzians, was the first to let all his dogs wearing a panzer or harness to
fight together in the frontline of the battle. He, together with other
conquerors has brought big dogs into Europe. The Romans have used about 200
before and 200 after Christ also dogs for several reasons. They had two types
of dogs: the heavy build, mollossoide type and the lighter, more elegant type.
From that time on, the dogs where bred and used for a certain aim. The heavy
Mollosser was used as weapon in battles, the lighter type was used as
herding-guarddog and also preferred by the later poor farmers for two reasons:
they where more efficient to help with the cattle, and they where cheaper to
feed. Centuries later about the years 1500 some dogs where used to guard the
frontiers, in England to catch cattle or horse thieves, later in America to
track runaway slaves.
In Belgium about 1700 was the first time they
used dogs to help the city guards. These dogs where not trained, they only
companioned the "policeman". Also between 1700 and 1900 a light type
of dog was used for herding sheep's. They where middle sized, very intelligent
and fast dogs. Al colors and coats where present. This is where the real
beginning starts, because the "Belgium Shepherd" is at the foundation
of the Ringsport…
from the article "The history of the Belgian Ringsport "by Guy Verschatse
Throughout our lifetime most of us have grown accustomed to a parade of labor
saving devices, the washing machine, the power saw and more recently the
personal computer. Whether or not our lives are richer is a question for the
philosophers, but certainly our expectation that there is always a way around
the drudgery of labor has been seldom disappointed.
Historically, working dog breeding has progressed
by training so as to identify those dogs worthy to carry on the race, to be
bred. Although for many of us this is a rewarding and agreeable pastime, others
have sought out the short cut, a way to certify breeding stock without the time
and effort necessary for training. Many of these people are those with money,
who through the professional handler system have purchased prominence and glory
in the show dog world without ever getting their hands dirty, often with dogs
which they simply purchase and send off to the handler, dogs which have never
been in their homes or physical possession.
The labor saving device has inevitably been some
sort of a "temperament test," a brief exercise in which the
supposedly untrained dog is exposed to a number of situations and an
"expert" or a panel of experts make observations and evaluate the
dog. Typically, the dog, accompanied by his owner, is approached by a friendly
stranger and perhaps a passive stranger and expected to show confidence and no
overt aggression. There is usually a gun test and some sort of device to
startle the dog, such as an umbrella. There will be some sort of mild agitation
to see if the dog will turn on to an aggressor, in which a bite may or may not
be expected.
In and of itself, as an exercise to observe the
dog, there is nothing inherently wrong with this process. But when substituted
as a real test, as a certification of character rather than a superficial and
preliminary evaluation, serious questions emerge.
For one thing, the testers are generally not
experienced trainers, are in fact drawn from among those seeking to avoid the
necessity of training. Serious trainers are generally reluctant to participate,
to lend credence to what is an obviously insufficient test being presented in a
false light. Thus, the "panel of experts" is often surprisingly light
on real experts, that is, those with extensive training experience and solid
credentials. The problem, in a nut shell, is that those who would be qualified
by experience and accomplishment to serve by and large will not serve precisely
because they understand that it is fundamentally and grievously dishonest to
participate when such a test is presented as a working character certification.
Another fallacy of the temperament test is that
the fundamental premise - that you are looking at the reactions of untrained
dogs, a pristine picture not clouded by human interference - is fundamentally
and routinely violated. The fact of the matter is that when the results will be
recorded and published all serious people will rigorously prepare their dogs,
and not present them until virtually certain of success. But the training
negates the fundamental premise, for the dog which can be trained to go
"woof, woof" at the agitator with the peculiar mannerisms will pass
and become a "certified working dog" in the eyes of his owner and
those unfortunate enough to buy puppies on the basis of such a test.
Although it has recently again become fashionable
to put forth some sort of ill defined "temperament test" as a quick
and easy way to promote the breed, this is not a new phenomena. Indeed, each
generation has seen its own myth builders come forth to hold out the promise of
a simple process to identify and certify dogs as of "working
character" without the necessity of training. For those of us who have
actually trained dogs the absurdity is profound; but the desire to believe, the
attraction of the simple solution, blinds each successive generation.
Perhaps the most fundamental and obvious fallacy
is the implication that training in and of itself is without importance. The
working willingness, the inborn propensity to form partnership bonds with the
human species, to accept training and make work a way of life, is what the
working dog, especially those drawn from herding stock, is all about. How can
you know if a dog is a working dog without training, putting him in the
crucible of the trial and seeing the truth emerge? Tracking or search work
demand enormous desire and willingness, are fundamental aspects of the Bouvier
as a working breed, yet are totally beyond the scope of temperament tests.
Indeed, a twenty minute test cannot because of brevity alone bring forth and
make obvious drive and perseverance, offer the steadfast dog no opportunity at
all to stand tall in the presence of the pedestrian mass.
Another fundamental failure of the character test
is that dogs which will bark and lunge at a mildly offensive agitator are
passed, declared to be of working character, without ever truly facing the test
for courage, proving the ability to press an attack against a determined,
threatening aggressor.
Among serious breeders, more demanding working
tests serve as the breeding prerequisite, the test of breeding suitability.
These tests vary by nation, with Schutzhund being the German standard, the IPO
the very similar test in much of the rest of Europe and the KNPV or Ring trials
being the tradition among various elements of the Dutch, Belgians and French.
In the Schutzhund world, a dog is required, prior to a trial with protection
test, to demonstrate stability and trainability in the test refereed to as the
BH or "Begleithund Prufung" in German. The BH is an obedience and
character examination with many similarities to the temperament tests as well
as fundamental differences.
The BH is of course not an adequate standard as a
breeding criteria, in that it does not have a protection exercise to test
courage and discipline under stress, nor a tracking or search test to
demonstrate olfactory capacity, working willingness and persistence. The
Bouvier des Flandres is a second rate working dog precisely because his
breeders have not held themselves to a higher standard. But it is a first step
back on the long road to redemption, important in a symbolic as well as a
practical sense.
The BH has two parts, a formal obedience test,
quite simple and elementary, and a more realistic test in circumstances meant
to show the dog's stability in the practical world. In the practical test, the
dog must walk on a loose leash and be passed by a jogger, a person on a bicycle
and perhaps a slow moving vehicle. The dog must walk on a loose leash past
another dog laying beside the path and not show aggression or fear. The judge
has some discretion on how the test is structured, so that while you can train
for the test, you do not know exactly what your dog will be presented with. The
"B" involves a simple obedience exercise, since as a prerequisite to
serious protection training it is important to demonstrate that the dog can be
taught to obey, that there is a certain level of intelligence and working
willingness.
A drawback to the temperament only test is that a
stupid or dull dog can usually pass. It may not be a pretty sight, but the dog
does not really have to do anything to pass, just not behave badly. A further
problem is that it is relatively easy to use drugs to turn a spooky or
sharp-shy dog into a simply dull dog and thus pass the test.
For this reason, the obedience exercises,
elementary as they are, are essential in that they show the dog can actually
respond to handler direction. While one dog is on a long down, the other dog
must demonstrate an on lead healing pattern, a walk through a group of people
on lead, and then a repeat of the group and healing exercises off lead, during
which there is a gun test. Then the dog must demonstrate a walking sit, a
walking down and a recall. That's all there is to it, no go out, no retrieve,
nothing especially difficult or demanding.
My experience is that temperament tests tend to
favor and bring forth the "happy-stupid" dog, the dog who is
boisterous, likes everybody and is willing to play the bark and lunge game with
the mildly aggressive agitator. He does quite well in the social tests, is
oblivious to the gun, indeed is in many ways too stupid to be afraid of
anything, and in general is willing to play and enjoy any of the games the
temperament test people conjure up. But he is not trainable in a practical
sense, is incapable of taking responsibility or exercising judgment and
generally is deficient as a protector when the going gets tough, as it from
time to time does in the real world. In short, such tests bring forth and
promote dogs profoundly deficient in the characteristics and propensities for
which our protective heritage breeds were developed, preserved and protected by
the founders and succeeding generations of working dog breeders.
Hippocampus is a small
specimen of the sea fauna.How does it
relate to dogs and dog’s education? Through a brain limbic cortex structure which looks a
bit like a sea horse and that’swhy got the
name of hippocampus. There are various scientific ideas and opinions relating to how this structure works, however
an integrated opinion was developed that among other functions it is
responsible for emotions and memory, and plays a dramatic role in the
capability of a dog to be taught and trained.
It is a well known fact that the very process
of education will be more successful if it is accompaniedwith emotions. What kind of emotions? It depends
upon the method of training. Briefly, we
can identify two main approaches in
dog’s training: the one which is based on a punishment for an undesirable
behavior, and the other which is based
on tipsfor a desirable behavior (of
course, the first variant does not exclude tips, as well as the second one does
not exclude some kind of punishment). The first one – let’s call it “the old
school” – was developed mostly in the first half of the XX century in the army
and police and applied for service dogs. It’s application was - and is - justified
taking into account the particular purposes and terms of training. One of the
valuable outcomes of this training is that it produces highly reliable and
responsible dogs. However, this training can be successful if the teacher
himself is a highly qualified professional who really love dogs.
The second approach was launched about forty
years ago and got impetus due to valuable works of Karen Prayor, Cesar Millan
and other outstanding biologists and cynologists. This method presumes that - while
teaching dogs - the accent is made on positive stimulation of a desirable behavior, which is much more practical for millions of amateurs
and dog lovers.
Here we come to a role of the hippocampus. To
develop a desirable behavior through positive stimulation has deep physiological roots, as lessons linked to
favorable emotions are properly fixed in the brain due to hippocampus.
As it was already mentioned, it is the limbic
cortex - and hippocampus in particular - that are responsible for dog’s
intellect (taking into account that shaping different “spheres of
responsibility” is rather vague as the brain works as a unique system). While
being trained a dog constantly meets with situations that are new to him/her. Each
time he/her has to decide whether to fulfill a command or an exerciseor to follow the instincts. It is no easy
task for a dog to make sucha decision as
in most cases the instincts tell quite opposite. The outcome of such “brain storm”
depends upon what is in the other scalepan. If the dog is offered a tip in an adequate amount he/she will ignore
his original intentions and chose completing the command. After repeating
this practice several times we can put dog’s behavior under our control (to
some extent) and obtain fulfilling a particular command. If the dog has a pause
in completing this very exercise he/she can forget it. It’ll be necessary to
repeat the exercise from the very start. It happens not because the dog is not
clever enough. The reason for it is the nature of this part of a brain – it is
responsible for a short term memory. That’s why it’s only natural if your young
dog after a week vacation forgets some command, try not to get annoyed but be tolerant
and repeat them quietly.
The other variant of training is when in the
other scalepan the dog can find a punishment for a fail to the exercise. Stresses
that feels your dog the moment he is punished are fixed in his brain. One can think
“What’s wrong with it? The dog will know what not to do”. However, it not so simple,
particularly if the dog is young. If this kind of practices is repeated one can
have a depressed creature as a result with an inadequate reaction to a command.
We can not completely avoid punishments in the
teaching process. But what kind of punishment should be applied? Too strict punishments
(cries on a dog is also a punishment) are better to be avoided. For dogs-pets
to stop playing or being ignored by his master for a few minutes are rather
serious scourge.
For a conclusion.
In training of dogs-pets it is better not to rely
on the effectiveness of punishments. It would be much practical and enjoyable
to make an accent on tips and games as it gives more fruitful results, supports education
and- what is very important - has psychological grounds.
What colors do you imagine while speaking about
Winter? The very word “Winter” always
associates with white snow, blue ice, green Christmas tree, orange mandarins, red
berries of holly (or ilex). This images emerge from our childhood. However, Winter
can be quite different from this bucolic pictures. The snow melted, leaving
only grey spots somewhere under trees, trees didn’t drop their foliage, green
ivy, continues to climb trees about twenty meters high. And the sky… it’s not cold
blue or black, but golden yellow or terracotta as a fire.
In order to make it safe for our pets, we need to take
a little extra care, so part of that time is not spent in the emergency room.
When things get hectic, pets' needs can sometimes get
neglected. It may be a holiday, but it is never a holiday from the
responsibilities of pet care.
Always make time to pay attention to your pets. Don't
get lax about walking your dog, cleaning your cat's litter box or letting your
rabbit out of the hutch. If you worry there will be times you can't give them
your full attention, enlist the help of a trusted family member, neighbour or
professional pet sitter/dog walker.
With people in and out of the house, there's an
increased risk of a pet getting out. Warn everyone to take extra care, or keep
the front door locked if you have to.
If you don't think you can safely monitor comings and
goings, keep your pets separated in another part of the house - at least until
everyone has arrived.
Now is a good time to make sure your pets are wearing
ID tags, and all contact information is current.
Make a note of your vet's holiday hours, the address
of a 24 hour emergency hospital, and the number of the animal poison hotline.
The last thing you want to do, is run around searching in a panic.
Decorations
Animals always seem to gravitate to the new things you
bring into your home, don't they? Imagine the temptation of trees, plants,
decorations, bright colours and flashing lights. Keep ornaments above their
reach as they, along with hooks and fasteners, can be eaten. Consider larger,
unbreakable ornaments.Watch out for tinsel. The shine is a real attraction, and can be eaten, or
become wrapped around the animals' neck.
If your pet is freaked out by twinkling lights, buy
ones that don't.
Snow globes can contain anti freeze, which is deadly
to pets. Pay attention to where you place them.
Cords are a tangling hazard, and some animals consider
them a chew toy. Hide them, cover them, tape them down.
Are some of your decorations toxic? Things like
bubbling lights, fake spray snow, and styrofoam, are potential hazards.
Who doesn't love lit candles, and logs burning in the
fireplace? Use fireplace screens, and keep candles out of reach. Never leave
burning candles unattended, even if you think you will only be gone for a
second. It never works out that way. Battery operated "faux" candles
are an alternative, and some are quite beautiful. While they may not be an
exact replacement for the real thing, you won't have any of the real worry.
Food
Who isn't guilty of slipping their pets a little
something, from the dinner table? If you aren't, great, but if we're talking
about you...
When you're sitting around the table, enjoying your
feast with family and friends, it's an exciting time for your pets, because
there are so many more people your animals can beg from. It also means a
greater chance of stomach problems. Even if you're used to feeding them table
scraps, it's probably best to put a blanket ban on that practice for now.
Poultry bones can splinter once swallowed, and cause
damage, and food too rich for sensitive stomachs can lead to vomiting, diarrhea
and even pancreatitis.
Never give sweets or chocolate. Remove all candy, even
sealed boxes from their line of sight. We've all seen our pets accomplish
amazing feats, when they put their minds to it.
Don't leave glasses with alcohol lying around for pets
to lick.
Keep your garbage can in a cupboard, but if you prefer
it out for the sake of convenience, make it pet proof.
Gifts and Wrapping
Of course you want to include your pet in the holiday,
by giving them presents. Just buy ones suitable for animals.
Take care when the rest of the family are opening
their gifts. Immediately throw out gift wrapping, ribbon, bows, and plastic
packaging. They'll be swiped before you know it.
Don't leave the kids' toys lying around either. Small
pieces can be bitten off, and cause choking or blockages.
Remember to never give pets as presents. You want to
get a family pet? Do it some other time of the year. Kids should be taught to
respect animals, and not view them as things. They need to learn there's a
difference between an animal and a sweater.
Noise
All the extra people in the house, means lots of extra
noise. Kids running around, music playing, Champagne bottles being opened,
Christmas crackers and balloons. While some animals have no problem, and are
more than happy to be in the middle of the mayhem, others are more skittish and
will feel quite nervous and stressed.
Make sure they have a quiet place where they can hide.
Put a bed, blanket, water and toys so they'll feel comfortable.
If your pet is particularly freaked out, there are
natural remedies and traditional medications that may be helpful. Speak to your
vet for some suggestions.
Weather
Depending on where you live, of course, Christmas can
bring some nasty weather. Christmas or not, animal care is not seasonal.
Consider limiting the amount of time they're outside,
and putting them in a coat or sweater. Salted sidewalks can burn your dogs'
paws, so try booties or one of the protective creams on the market.
Who were the ancestryof dogs: wolves, jackals or an unknown
animal. Or may be all of them. Nobody knows for sure.I have an idea of my own about how dogs appeared.
Having created a man the God tried to teach him
to live on his own.When he considered that
the education was completed he took the man to the road, and leaving him there started
back home. In a minute he looked back:
the man was still standing on the road lost and alone. The God felt confused.
Yes, it was his first experiment in creating a man, however he hoped the
outcome would be more promising. The God decided to correct the situation: he
created a dog and sent him to the man.
The dog
got many usefultalents, the most outstandingis dog’s ability to change for he could
follow and live with the man in any place of the world and take any shape
according to man’s fantasies. However, the God was generous that day and gave the dog one more feature - the
most valuable: dog’s inexhaustible ability to love man and the readiness to go
with him till the very end.
In the 60-ties the concept of the therapy with the use
of animals was launched by Boris Levinson, a children’s therapist. He noticed
that his little patients enjoyed playing with his dog when they came to him for
a psychotherapy.In 1969 he used
theterm “pet- therapy”.
However, canistherapy has ancient roots.
In Ancient Egypt dogs were sacred symbols of goddess Gula, an outstanding healer, as well
as of other gods responsible for healing. Dogs also made company for Marduk, the
main god of the ancient Babylon. In the Antique Greece dogs played a key role in the cult of Asclepius,
son of Apollo and the god of healing. Asclepius came to his patients sometimes
as a man sometimes as a snake or a dog who licked wounds.
Saints of the early
Christianity were often painted with dogs who had healed them.
In the late XVIII century zootherapy was used in England
in the psychiatric clinic “York Retriete” A lot of various animals were
kept by the clinic: dogs, cats, rabbits, birds. Patients were involved in taking
care of the animals and communicated with them. The head of the clinic
considered thatpatients believed in their
own forces when they took care of those who were weaker.
A little later in Germany one of the hospitals for
healing of epilepsy started to use animals. This hospital for 5 thousands of
patients still works and kept two cattle farms, horses for riding, a lot of
small animals.
Dr. Levinson was far from being the first who
discovered the effectivepositive
results of communication with animals. However he made a great contribution as he founded scientifically the use of animals
in healing and attracted attention to this method.
Karsons were among the first who actively supported the
idea and developed a program“Psychotherapy
with the help of pets” in the Ohio University.
Doghunring – a particular phenomenonof modern Russia. In 2011 this movement got
an official support when St.Petersburg authorities invited doghunters to
eliminate street dogs and cats, and promised to pay 800 rubles (about 20 €) for
each … dog’s or cat’s head. What kind of authorities we have which cooperate
with people who enjoy cutting off dogs’ and cats’ heads?This year the wave of doghunters’ activity
got a new force. Only in Moscow more than a thousand dogs were killed. Recently
a internationally well knowndog-diver
was poisoned in Vladivostok.
Bonifaciy - a dog-diver His master Sergey Gorbunov
It seems at a first glance that doghunters are
maniacs and sadists. It is true. However, a few questions emerged relating to
these dramatic events. Poisons – each year more and more sophisticated – are
rather expensive, poison is put into meat, which is also rather expensive. All
the activity is well organized and needs a lot of time. Doghunters have weapons.
Who stands behind the scene? Where is the inexhaustible financial source? And
why the police does not even make an effort to stop this inhumane activity? And – the final question – whether dogs and
cats are the key goal of these actions? Or the poor creatures are only the
instruments for reaching some other purpose?
A small white dog protected his owner on a busy city street in China after the man fainted while crossing the road. The small dog barked at police and paramedics when they tried to get close to the unconscious man.
People managed to successfully distract the dog so paramedics could lift the man into the ambulance. Once he was secured, the paramedics let the little dog into the back of the ambulance so he could stay by his owner's side and ride with him to hospital.
This story, however dramatic, had a bright side, as the dog was let into the ambulance and went with his master. In a lot of such cases dogs got lost, or killed or taken under dogs' control.
Today I’d like to share with
you some key ideas of an article by Julie Cantrell that I found very valuable
and instructive for dog training. Julie put in the focus of dog training
process the human-dog communication. The main thing, as she sees it, is your concentration
on dogs behavior, your ability to communicate with your dog through body
movements, voice and tones.
Dogs are amazing creatures. They adapt
to countless situations. They are phenomenal at associations: including
learning the meaning or implication of many sounds, such as human language. A
dog's "vocabulary" can reach upward of 150 distinct words! However,
regardless of how smart, how skilled, and how adaptable they are, dogs will
never be verbal animals. Their first language, so to speak, is not words, but
body language. Because of this, it's only natural that your dog will interpret
your words though a "filter" - of body language, facial expression,
tone of voice, even your attention. And if one or more of these
"disagree" with the words you are using, most dogs will
"obey" your body language!
In my
experience, most snags in the dog training process result from
miscommunication, not willfulness, stubbornness, or dominance. While this
article is geared toward training the family dog, the fact is that whether your
dog is strictly a family pet, a competitor in canine sports, or a full-time
working dog, getting the most out of your training time means learning to
communicate effectively with your dog.
Communication Begins with Attention
Possibly
the most fundamental form of communication is your attention. This is true
whether you are teaching some new skill, practicing an old one, or refining an
advanced behavior. When you give your attention to something your dog does -
through touch, voice, eye contact, smiling, or laughter - you draw attention to
the behavior. This tells your dog that you find the behavior worthy of
interest. Dogs, being sociable creatures, find most interaction and attention
reinforcing. They value it, and will work to get it - and this is not even
considering whether or not the dog finds the behavior reinforcing in and of itself.
So when training, keep in mind that you don't have to actively reward a
behavior to reinforce it.
Bring
yourself into a training session committed to focusing on your dog to the same
extent that you are asking him to focus on you. Avoid training when you are
distracted or pre-occupied.
The Body Language of Effective Dog Training
Training
your dog is the ultimate expression of leadership: you are taking the
initiative to teach, guide, and direct your dog. Your body language, therefore,
should reflect your role as teacher and leader, communicating a calm
self-confidence and composure. Let's look at the components of non-verbal
communication as they affect your dog:
Your body language begins at the top, with your face.
Training should be a positive, pleasant experience for you and your dog. Before
you begin, and periodically throughout, consciously relax your facial muscles.
Smile gently. Soften your eyes.
If you find yourself becoming flustered, frustrated,
tense, or anxious, your may find that your dog reflects your emotions:
·He may seek
calmness elsewhere, by avoiding looking at you, or even trying to move away
from you. Some dogs become exaggeratedly slow and sedate, or even show
submissive behaviors, as they try to calm you.
·He may "act
out" in an attempt to distract you or diffuse the situation. This type of
dog may become generally agitated, or even resort to silly antics to distract
you from yourself!
·If you become
nervous, many dogs will reflect that nervousness, either distracting themselves
from an uncomfortable situation, or looking around to find the source of your
tension.
If any
of these happen while training your dog, before you direct your frustration at
him, look to yourself first. Take a deep, steady breath, relax your face and
your body, smile, and try again!
More than Just Words
Communicating
clearly and effectively to your dog includes becoming aware of how your tone of
voice, and delivery of cues, affect how your dog learns and responds. When
training your dog, keep in mind that your voice conveys more than just the
command itself.
First, be consistent. Dog owners new to training often vary their cue delivery, switching
back and forth between, for example, a nice, straightforward "sit", a
loud and forceful "SIT!", and a sing-songy, not particularly
confident-sounding "si-yit?" To a dog, each of these sounds is very
different, not like the same cue at all!
If you do
need to use your voice to indicate that you don't want a particular behavior -
whether you say no, or ah-ahh, wrong, etc - the sound should be dismissive, not
angry or frightening. The point is to educate, not intimidate. Remember, as you
work with one another, both you and your dog will make mistakes. The point is
not to make him feel badly for his mistake, but to learn how to best help him
be right. A dog trained this way will understand your message, while continuing
to want to work with you.
Putting it All Together
So, when
working with your dog, make up your mind to relax, smile, be calm, and have
fun. Can you do it another way? Sure. But this article is about helping you
make the most of your communication with your dog, and maximizing the
effectiveness - and enjoyment - of your training time together. Remember, both
you and your dog will make mistakes as you go along. It's not only okay, it's
natural and a to-be expected part of the learning process. Now get out there
and enjoy yourselves!
Julie Cantrell BSc (Zoology), CPDT, CDBC is a
professional dog trainer, obedience instructor, and dog behavior specialist. In
the past 20 years she has helped thousands of dogs and their owners learn to
get along with one another. She draws on both her formal training and her
extensive practical knowledge to sort dog training fact from fiction, and
provide sound, solid, "user friendly" advice to get dog owners on
track to a happier, more satisfying relationship with their best friends.
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